Side by side

Drop Fade vs Low Fade

A drop fade is a low fade that has stopped being level, and the two are often quoted at the same price with the same words.

Fade

Drop Fade

Guard 0-1 · 35-45m · back in 2-3 wks

The fade line curves down behind the ear instead of running level around the head. It follows the skull rather than cutting across it, which softens a hard jaw and adds a little height at the crown.

Full drop fade page

Fade

Low Fade

Guard 1 · 25-35m · back in 2-3 wks

The gradient starts just above the ear and stays low around the head. The most forgiving fade there is — it works with almost any top and almost any face, which is why it is the default ask in most shops.

Full low fade page
The difference

What actually separates them.

A standard low fade runs level — the line circles your head at a constant height, cutting across the skull. A drop fade curves down behind the ear and follows the shape of your head instead. It is the same guard work, arranged along a different line. The drop takes longer, thirty-five to forty-five minutes against twenty-five to thirty-five, because the arc has to be blended by eye rather than run round on a level.

Drop Fade and Low Fade, measured
MeasureDrop FadeLow Fade
Guard range0-11
Chair time35-45m25-35m
Back in2-3 wks2-3 wkssame
InstrumentClipper + scissorsClipper + scissorssame
CategoryFadeFadesame
SuitsOval, Square, DiamondOval, Round, Square, Heart, Diamond, Oblong, Triangle
Hair typeCoily, Thick, DenseStraight, Wavy, Thick, Coily
Which one

Pick on upkeep, not on the photo.

Choose the drop fade

You have a hard jaw you want softened, or you want a little visual height at the crown. It suits dense and coily hair, where there is enough weight for the curve to show.

Choose the low fade

You want the cheaper, faster, more predictable version. A level line is easier for any barber to execute and easier to match on a walk-in somewhere new.

Say where you want the arc to sit — behind the ear is standard, lower is softer — and name the guard at the bottom. A drop fade with no stated arc is just a low fade.

What to say

The words for each.

For a drop fade

  1. Ask for a drop fade and say where you want the arc to sit — behind the ear is standard, lower is softer.
  2. Name the guard you want at the bottom. A zero is skin; a one leaves a shadow.
  3. Say whether the top is staying long. The drop reads best with weight left on top.

For a low fade

  1. Ask for a low fade starting an inch above the ear.
  2. Say whether you want it taken to skin or left at a one.
  3. Confirm the top length in fingers or inches, not adjectives.